Luxor – A Step Back In Time
On my arrival in Luxor I wondered if my plane was in fact a time machine transporting me back one hundred years. Horse-drawn carriages sped down dusty, uneven streets whilst locals clothed in the traditional galabaya dress smoked lazily on a sheesha-pipe by the side of the road. I was yet to learn that Luxor stands as one of the most significant tourist destinations of our time. Not only displaying the largest open-air museum known to man, but reigning as the archaeological centre of the world.
My trusty guide book told me that Luxor had a population of over 440,000 people and was spilt into three main areas. It wasn’t long before I had mastered my way around. The city of Luxor was where I could find the train station, cruise departures, and airport. It also housed the major hotels, restaurants, and bazaars. Karnak, a couple miles north was dominated by Karnak Temple, a city in itself. Lastly, over the river the West Bank was mostly occupied by locals living amongst the famous archaeological sites. Dividing the East and West Bank stood the River Nile, what I had been longing to see. The world’s longest river was obviously a precious and limited resource for the locals. Providing fertility in a desert landscape, it is essential for survival.
I experienced a culture shock on arrival to this strange new land. I was being rudely awoken at 6 am by the drone of the chanting mosques, having three cold showers a day to combat the August heat, and just discovered I wouldn’t see a single pork sausage the duration of the holiday. Things didn’t get any better when I left the hotel. Egyptians seemed to have no qualms about hassling me in the street. I felt like I was their main target. I was bombarded with ‘special offers’ and ‘good prices’ on tacky ornaments of King Tutankhamen. I couldn’t work it out. Surely if they just left people alone they would profit more.
Fortunately I found a bazaar which held plenty of opportunity for some serious souvenir shopping. This busy marketplace located behind Luxor Temple was an Aladdin’s cave of healing spices, smooth silk rugs, and vibrant costume galabayas. It didn’t take too long to discover that Egyptians were passionate merchants. As much as hassling tourists in the street seemed illogical, I was beginning to understand. Tourism is their main source of income, it isn’t just a way of life - it’s a fight for survival. Haggling was an alien concept to me but I was willing to give it a go. I had been told a good rule of thumb; aim for a third of the asking price. There was only one way I was going to find out.
Luckily for me there were some things in Luxor I didn’t have to haggle for. I purchased my ticket and was on my way. I was excited to visit my first temple. I gingerly passed the armed guards and followed the crowds down. With every step closer to the temple it seemed to grow even grander. By the time I had reached the entrance I felt like an extra in ‘Honey I shrunk the kids’. Ramses II guarded the temple from his glorious throne. The statue towered above me. I was just about level with Ramses ankle. I quickly snapped out of my trance-like state, there was no time to waste. I had a whole temple to explore.
The following day I woke to the ringing of my travel alarm clock. The time was 4.45 am and a long day lay ahead. I left my hotel at this ungodly hour and headed for the Cornishe, Luxor’s main street. I was catching a fulucca boat and would be having my first taste of life on the West Bank. The fulucca man helped me on to his small vessel and made sure I was comfortable. It was still dark and the tired faces of the group confirmed this was not a normal waking hour. The fulucca man offered us either an awakening coffee or a refreshing karkadeh. I thankfully drank the karkadeh, a combination of dried hibiscus flower and sweet sugar.
The fulucca ride only took 15 minutes. From the Nile bank we were transported to an open field were I would be taking-off on my first hot air balloon ride. As I was lifted up into the basket I felt the intense heat from the flame which roared above me; I was about to see Luxor from a birds-eye view. As dawn hit, I could clearly see where the lush green vegetated farmland met the arid dessert. We floated over Queen Hatshepsut’s temple and headed towards a residential area. Clusters of two-storey mud-huts lay side by side between crop fields and famous temples. As we flew over the houses I could see astonished looks from my fellow passengers. As I looked down I saw locals waving to us from the comfort of their beds. No one had mentioned the locals slept on their roofs!
After an exciting start to the day I was off to explore the rest of the West Bank by foot. I had been told that visiting the tombs of the Ancient Egyptian Pharaohs without a guide was like watching TV with the sound turned off. I didn’t want to miss anything so I booked with an organised group tour, costing in the region of $90. The morning was spent visiting the final resting place of the Ancient Egyptian royalty; The Valley of the Kings. My pass allowed me into 6 of the 62 tombs. Our guide Ali informed us of the different tombs and where they were located, which were the most adventurous, and most importantly, which still displayed the most vibrant colours. Ali then explained how the treasures found at the Valley of the Kings had given invaluable evidence to the life of the Ancient Egyptians. He showed us pictures from excavations in the area and told us the story of Howard Carter’s amazing discovery. Lastly, he pointed us in the direction of Luxor’s best love site, the tomb of the boy king, Tutankhamun.
A short drive from The Valley of the Kings stood Queen Hatshepsut’s modern looking temple. The afternoon heat was piercing down and we stayed cool in the air-conditioned coach whilst our guide told us about Queen Hatshepsut’s dramatic life. I found the temple unique to those which I had previously seen. Set within the mountains the temple had been constructed with great pylons, statues, and wide open-spaced terraces. As I stood at the top of the terrace I took a moment to enjoy the superb views which headed back over the East Bank.
At first I was nervous by Luxor’s horse-drawn carriages, haggling merchants, and sheesha-smoking locals. They made me wonder why anyone would want to visit such a haphazard destination. I soon learnt that this is what makes Luxor so unique; you actually feel like you have stepped back in time. As soon as I’d got used to this diverse way of live, I realised I’d learn a whole lot about Egyptian culture, history, and lifestyle.
Fact File
- You can arrive in Luxor by train or road from Cairo, as well as domestic and international flights. Luxor is an excellent base from which to explore all that southern Egypt has to offer. Cruise boats depart daily heading up the Nile towards the city of Aswan. Usually taking about a week most cruises will stop at the temples of Esna, Edfu, and Kom-Ombo along the way.
- Luxor’s signature blue and white Peugeot Taxis are the main form of transport. AU$7 will get you anywhere along the East Bank. A trip to the West Bank will be around $15, and to hire for the whole day, approximately $50. With all transportation you will have to haggle for a price.
- A great way to get to know the city better is to hire a caliche (horse and carriage). Hiring a caliche will cost in the region of $12 an hour. Your caliche driver will be more than happy to show you where his whole family lives, teach you a little about Luxor’s past, and end the tour at his cousin’s jewellery store.